Street food in Hanoi

So here we go, everything to eat in Hanoi. I’ll focus on mainly street food but throw in the odd restaurant here and there. Dig in!

Bun cha is the most famous Hanoi food and for good reason!s

I’m not saying my second trip to Vietnam was a direct result of trying bun cha during my first… But let’s just say it was probably a factor! There are few better experiences in Southeast Asia than perching on a red stall slurping up a hearty bowl of bun cha.

This smoky, succulent dish is made from slow-cooked pork in a flavoursome broth. It’s usually teamed with a portion of ‘nem’ (fried spring rolls), rice noodles and a basket of herbs and leaves. Add them to the broth with a healthy dose to chilli if you dare!

Bun cha sprung to fame when the late Anthony Bourdain (whilst filming Parts Unknown) and President Obama tucked into a steaming bowl perched on plastic stools.

The locals looked on gobsmacked and the modest eaterie has never been mentioned in a sentence without the word ‘Obama’ since. True story (probably).

Where to try bun cha: if you don’t fancy the now-touristy Bún Chả Hương Liên 2 Obama (yes, they added Obama to the name), I recently ate an amazing portion in the Old Quarter for 60k VND. It was at a restaurant named after the dish, Bun Cha Nem at 6 Ngõ Trạm Street (search by address as the name isn’t listed on Google).

Other highly recommended bun cha spots include:

• Bun Cha 34 at 34 Hàng Than, Nguyễn Trung Trực, Ba Đình
• Bun Cha Dac Kim at No. 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem.

Bun cha and bun ca only differ by one letter but are two totally separate dishes.

The latter means fish noodles. The fish is fried meaning it’s salty, flavoursome and perfectly suited to a fresh, tangy broth.

Where to try bun ca: I tried bun ca in Trung Yen Alley which is a bit of a Hanoi hidden gem. This Hanoi street food alley famed by locals is little known to tourists but it’s well worth checking out.

The street eateries there aren’t mapped online but you can easily pull up a stool and order a steaming bowl of bun ca. Show them this photo if you get stuck.

This version of ‘nem’ (fried spring rolls) looks similar to the meaty ones that come with bun cha. However, they have a different filling: rich, moreish crab.

Where to try nem cua be: I had a fantastic and very cheap serving at Noodle and Roll in the Old Quarter. This is a restaurant rather than a street food joint so it’s a good spot for newbies easing into the cuisine.

Translating as ‘fish roll meat’, these fried goodies are similar to crab rolls but with fish rather than crab and an added layer of pork.

Interestingly, this dish isn’t just native to Hanoi, it’s also unique to the particular alleyway it’s served in, Trung Yen, where I also ate bun ca. As above, I’d recommend showing them this photo and text because Vietnamese pronunciations can be tough (I wouldn’t trust myself to get it even close!).

• Maison de Lien, 6 Nam Ngo – head here for high-quality deli ingredients and tasty, elegant banh mis
• Banh Mi 25, 25 Hàng Cá, – this Western-style joint didn’t wow me but everyone else seems to love it so I thought I’d give it a mention (it’s a great option for vegetarians, though I’m not sure they’re still reading!)
• Tram Banh My, 252 Cửa Nam – a cheap, local variation with lots of oozy, messy sauce

I find it bizarre how popular pho is in the West while tons of equally delicious Vietnamese dishes don’t get recognised.

I don’t eat pho as often as some dishes but when I’m in the right mood, it’s tasty, tangy and warming. Opt for ‘bo’ (beef) or ‘ga’ (chicken). Beef is way nicer in my opinion.

Tip for ordering pho: don’t be that Westerner who pronounces it wrong! Saying the ‘o’ sound translates as prostitute. Say ‘fuh’.

Where to try pho: eat pho at Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan (49 Bát Đàn Street) for 50k VND. This serving (pictured) was incredible – so much juicy beef! The variety served here is ‘pho tai nam’ which I believe includes various cuts of meat. Expect round steak, flank and brisket.

The other place I see enormous queues for is Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su. I’ve yet to eat here but people don’t wait that long for no good reason! Both these Old Quarter eateries are bound to be a great intro to pho or a solid repeat portion.

Don’t leave Hanoi without stuffing yourself with a hot pot – preferably an unlimited one.

Hot pots (known in Vietnamese as ‘lau’) are cooked at your table and include noodles, meat, veggies, tofu and just about anything else you fancy throwing in.

They’re also a really sociable way of dining. One hot pot can feed a large group of people and you’ll often see huge families bonding over their shared meal.

I went to Buffet Khan with my Vietnamese friend where we paid 100k VND each for an unlimited hot pot feast including sides of prawn crackers, sweet dim sum and salad. A random mix but very tasty.

Where to try lau: Buffet Khan at 56 Khâm Thiên is an all-you-can-eat restaurant (now there’s a challenge!) but you’ll find this food in Hanoi from the Old Quarter to the outskirts. You can guarantee everything’s fresh since it’s literally cooked before your eyes!

On my last night in Hanoi, my local friend suggested we go out for cha ca. I’d never heard of this Hanoi food before but I knew that ca meant fish.

Cha translates as ‘grilled’ which meant our dinner was grilled fish. This turned out to be a feast! A big pot of fish and greens was placed over a flame on our table and topped up whenever it was empty.

It’s not exactly street food but I’d argue that egg coffee is creamy enough to count as a dessert. While perched on a street stall outside one of the many cafes in Hanoi, I watched the world go by while sipping rich and creamy egg coffee.

It sounds odd but I love the combination of bitter black coffee with sweet whisked egg and condensed milk. Drinking egg coffee in Hanoi is a right of passage for foodies!

Note: Cancellation must be made one day before the trek for free of charge. Otherwise you have to pay 30% for the prepared ultilities!